Underarm construction for garments

ABSTRACT

A sleeve and armhole arrangement includes a sleeve pattern having a top edge with an arcuate shoulder portion bounded by two relatively long acute angle projections. The projections extend a distance from the cuff which exceeds the distance between the apex of the arcuate shoulder portion and the cuff. The body pattern armhole is contoured to match the top edge of the sleeve portion. The resulting garment has an underarm region characterized by bias planes which yield in response to all possible arm movement and thereby provides extreme pliancy and comfort.

United States Patent 91 Glassberg 1March l3, 1973- 1 1 UNDERARMCONSTRUCTION FOR GARMENTS [76] lnventorz Florence Glassberg, 1489 ShoreParkway, Brooklyn, NY 11214 [22] Filed: Oct. 15, 1971 l [21] Appl. No.:189,601

[52] U.S. Cl. ..2/125 [51] Int. Cl. ..A4lb 1/08 [58] Field of Search..2/106, 125, 126, 269, 270

[56] References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS R22,906 8/1947 Sholder..2/125 1,986,217 1/1935 Pilla .Q .....2/125 2,659,890 11/1953 Revolta..2/125 2,036,013 3/1936 .....2/125 Berman 2,386,768 10/1945 Ayoub..2/106 Primary Examiner-Patrick D. Lawson Attorney-Rose & Edell [57]ABSTRACT A sleeve and armhole arrangement includes a sleeve patternhaving a top edge with an arcuate shoulder portion bounded by tworelatively long acute angle projections. The projections extend adistance from the cuff which exceeds the distance between the apex ofthe arcuate shoulder portion and the cuff. The body pattern armhole iscontoured to match the top edge of the sleeve portion. The resultinggarment has an underarm region characterized by bias planes which yieldin response to all possible arm movement and thereby provides extremepliancy and comfort.

6 Claims, 5 Drawing Figures PATENTEDMAR1 31975 R O T N E V m FLURENCEGLQSSBERG' @casa M AT ORNEYS UNDERARM CONSTRUCTION FOR GARMENTSBACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to garmentconstruction and, more particularly, to a garment having an improvedarmhole region which facilitates arm movement and is comfortable, neatin appearance, and simple to construct.

Conventional underarm regions in garments are restrictive of armmovement primarily because of the lateral underarm seam generallyemployed. Of particular concern is the tendency of the garment to hikeup along the side of the wearer whenever the arm is raised, therebycausing the garment to become untucked (in the case of shirts andblouses) at the waist.

Numerous prior art attempts have been made to provide garments such asshirts, dresses, blouses, jackets etc., which permit the wearer improvedfreedom of arm motion. Most of these prior art garments have beenconcerned with the problem of the garment not remaining tucked orotherwise properly positioned when the wearer raises his or her arms.Examples of these prior art garments may be found in U.S. Pat. No.1,986,2l7 to Pilla, U.S. Pat. No. 2,386,768 to Ayoub, and U.S. Pat. No.Re22,906 to Sholder. Each of these patents is specifically concernedwith providing greater fullness in the underarm region of the garment,the fullness acting to "take up the slack when wearers arm is raised.Each of these patents describes a similar variation of the standardsleeve pattern. Specifically, whereas a conventional sleeve patternexhibits a smooth symmetrical cu'rve along its top edge, Pilla, Ayouband Sholder interrupt the curve with small winglike appendages. Theseappendages are sewn together when the sleeve is assembled to provide anunderarm region of greater fullness than is present in conventionalsleeves.

A common problem to each of Pilla, Ayoub and Sholder is the veryfullness they seek. Specifically, the additional fullness causes abunching of material in the underarm region of the wearer when the armis lowered. This bunching is undesirable from an aesthetic point ofview. More importantly, the excess material in the underarm regioncauses much discomfort. Thus, while the sleeve arrangements of theaforementioned patents do reduce the tendency of a shirt or the like tobecome untucked when the arm is raised, the excess material in theunderarm region restricts substantially all other arm motion.

Apart from aesthetic and comfort considerations, the sleeve arrangementsdescribed by Pilla, Ayoub and Sholder are relatively complex tofabricate. The conventional symmetrical sleeve pattern is easilydesigned and sewn directly to the garment armhole. In Pilla, the sleevemust undergo relatively complex folding and sewing steps to formunderarm hinges which provide the desired greater fullness. Sholderrequires an asymmetrical sleeve pattern which is not easily designed andwhich by its very nature, must provide a shirred or puffed shoulder lookhaving severe styling limitations. The Ayoub sleeve involves difficultyduring garment assembly since Ayoub specifically requires that thesleeve fabric be distorted as it is sewn to the armhole of the body ofthe garment.

It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide a garmentwhich has a simple structural design in the region of the armhole andyet provides complete comfort and flexibility.

lt isanother object of the present invention to provide an armhole andsleeve arrangement which is simple to construct, does not limit styling,and yet is comfortable in that there is no undue bunching'of material inthe underarm region of the wearer and no pulling at the waist when thewearer's arm is raised.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION According to the principles of the presentinvention the underarm portion of a sleeve pattern is formedby a pair ofrelatively long, acute angular projections which extend further from thesleeve cuff than does the shoulder portion of the sleeve. The armholeofthe body portion of the garment is cut to match the sleeve patternwhereby the completed garment is characterized by a pair of downwardlyconverging and sharply angled underarm seams as compared to theconventional and highly restrictive lateral underarm seam. These angledor bias seams permit the arm to be raised without restraint by orpulling of the garment. In addition the sleeve fits the underarm regionof the wearer without bunching, thereby providing unusual pliancy andcomfort. Further, lateral arm motion is not restricted by this armholearrangement because the bias plane across the angular projections easesthe pull on the garment in the back and chest areas.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS The above and still further objects,features and advantages of the present invention will become apparentupon consideration of the following detailed description of one specificembodiment thereof, especially when taken in conjunction with theaccompanying drawings, wherein:

FIG. 1 is a detailed plan view illustrating a typical sleeve patternconfigured according to the present invention;

FIG. 2 is a detailed plan view of one-half of the front of atypical bodypattern for a shirt configured according to the present invention;

FIG. 3 is a detailed plan view of one-half of the rear of a typical bodypattern for a shirt configured according to the present invention;

FIG. 4 isa front view in perspective illustrating a completed shirtwhich utilizes the patterns of FIGS. 1, 2 and 3; and

FIG. 5 is a rear view in perspective of the shirt of FIG. 4.

DESCRIPTION OF PREFERRED EMBODIMENT Referring specifically to FIG. 1 ofthe accompanying drawings, there is illustrated a pattern 10 for asleeve to be utilized in the fabrication of a man's shirt. The patternincludes a generally straight cuff region 11 at the bottom, a pair ofsides 13 and 15 which generally diverge from opposite ends A, B of cuffregion 11, and an arcuate shoulder portion 17. The arcuate shoulderportion 17 is symmetrical with respect to cuff region 1 1, having anapex point C and end points D and E. The

end points of arcuate section 17 do not intersect sides 1 13 and 15 asin conventional sleeve patterns; rather the top of the pattern breaksaway into two upwardly projecting and mutually diverging winglikeprojections 19 and 21. These projections, when sewn together asdescribed below, form the underarm region of the garment. Morespecifically, conventional sleeve patterns are configured as representedby broken lines 23 and 25 to provide a lateral underarm seam. As will beclearly understood from the subsequent description, the conventionallateral seam is eliminated by means of projections 19 and 21.

The distinctiveness of pattern 10 as compared to the sleeve patterns ofthe aforementioned Pilla, Ayoub and Sholder patents resides in theparticular configuration of projections 19 and 21. Specifically, thetops of these projections, points F and G, respectively, are displacedfrom cuff region 11 by a distance which exceeds the displacement betweenthe cuff region and apex point C of arcuate shoulder portion 17. Inaddition, the sides of the projections form smaller or more acute anglesthan do the sides of the projections in the Pilla, Ayoub and Sholderpatents. The significance of these distinctions will be more clearlyunderstood from FIGS. 4 and and the description thereof hereinbelow.

Projection 19 is formed by side D-F and side H-F, where H is a point atthe top of pattern side 13 at which the top and side of theconventionalsleeve pattern intersect (reference broken line 23 and its intersectionwith side 13). The angle between sides D-F and I-I-F is approximately30, although a variation of 1 is permissible.

Having described sleeve pattern 10, attention is directed to FIGS. 2 and3 wherein patterns 27 and 29,

respectively are illustrated. Pattern 27 is for one-half of the front ofa mans shirt; pattern 29-is for one-half of the back of a mans shirt andis arranged to cooperate with pattern 27 to form an armhole regionrequired for sleeve pattern 10.

Pattern 27 includes a side 31 defined between bottom point K and toppoint L, the latter being located at the bottom of the armhole region 35in pattern 27. The shoulder line 33 of pattern 27 extends between theneck opening and the top of armhole region 35. Armhole region 35 is cutto match the contour of a portion of the top of sleeve pattern 10.Specifically, a first section LM of armhole region 35 corresponds to theconfiguration of side F-D of projection 19 in sleeve pattern 10. Theremainder of armhole region 35 between point M and shoulder line 33matches the contour of the section of arcuate shoulder portion 17immediately to the right of point D in FIG. 1.

Pattern 29 includes a side 37 defined between bottom point N and toppoint P, the latter being located at the bottom of the armhole region 39in pattern 29. Shoulder line 41 of pattern 29 extends between the neckopening and the top of armhole region 39. The latter is cut to matchthecontour of the remainder of the top of sleeve pattern 10. Specifically,a first section P-Q of armhole region 39 corresponds to theconfiguration of side E-G of projection 21 in sleeve pattern 10. Theremainder of armhole region 39 between point Q and shoulder line 41matches the contour of the section of arcuate shoulder portion 17immediately to the left of point E in FIG. 1. This latter section ofarmhole re-' gion 39 includes a point R which corresponds to the apex Cof shoulder portion 17 in FIG. 1.

Patterns 10, 27 and 29 may be sewn together to fabricate the completedmans shirt illustrated in FIGS. 4 and 5. Fabrication follows thesequence of steps described below. First shoulder lines 33 and 41 ofpatterns 27 and 29, respectively are sewn together to form a shoulderseam for the shirt. Next the top of sleeve pattern 10 is inserted intothe armhole regions 35, 39. This placement is effected by: aligning sideD-F of projection 19 with line M-L of armhole region 35; aligning sideE-G of projection 21 with line Q-P of armhole region 39; and aligningarcuate shoulder portion 17 (E-C-D) of sleeve pattern 10 with line Q-R-Mof combined armhole regions 39 and 35. Centering is effected by matchingpoints C and R. After the patterns are placed as described, a continuousseam is sewn to join sleeve pattern 10 with body patterns 27, 29. Thisseam is stitched continuously, starting at points L/F and proceeding insequence through points M/D, R/C, Q/E, and FIG.

To close the garment, sides 13 and 15 of sleeve pattern 10 are sewntogether such that points A, H and F match points B, J and G,respectively. The side seam is then continued by sewing sides 31 and 37together with points K and L matching points N and P respectively.

The finished garment is illustrated in FIGS. 4 and 5. Importantly, it isthe bias or diagonal seaming of the sleeve which permits the wearer ofthe finished garment to raise an arm to a fully vertical positionwithout restraint or pull in the garment. In addition it is the biasplane across projections 19, 21 which provides easement of thehorizontal pull around the back and chest areas of the garment. I

The appearance ofthe finished garment is characterized by a generallytriangular and downwardly pointing projection in the underarm portion ofthe sleeve, the projection being formed by individual projections 19, 21of sleeve pattern 10. In effect, the sleeve and its parts have beenjuxtaposed relative to the body so as to utilize the bias or diagonalplanes of the fabric. Wherever stress of the fabric might occur due toarm movement, a bias or diagonal plane is provided which yields to themovement.

The sleeve and armhole design described above provides a smooth,body-contoured underarm region of extraordinary pliancy and comfort. Thedesign is appropriate to shirts, blouses, dresses, jackets, coats, undergarments, etc. It has use in garments for men, women and children, andmay be employed in pullover garments as well as garments which open fromthe front or back. Moreover, since the underarm design does not affectstyling of the garment, it may be incorporated into high fashion wearingapparel as well as work clothes, sports wear, etc. In addition, thegarment is as simple to cut and assemble as conventional sleeve andarmhole arrangements.

While I have described and illustrated one specific embodiment of myinvention, it will be clear that variations of the details ofconstruction which are specifically illustrated and described may beresorted to without departing from the true spirit and scope of theinvention as defined in the appended claims.

I claim:

1. A sleeve garment affording the wearer considerablyimproved freedom ofarm motion by eliminating the motion-restricting lateral underarm seamemployed in conventional garments, said sleeved garment comprising:

a body portion having a side seam and an armhole opening disposed abovesaid side seam, said armhole opening having a regularly curved shoulderregion and a pair of sides which converge downwardly along the side ofsaid body portion to meet the top of said side seam at a locationsubstantially below the armpit of the wearer; and

one-piece sleeve characterized by: two-longitudinally extendingsidesjoined together to provide a single sleeve seam; a regularly curvedshoulder region at one end of said sleeve contoured to match theshoulder region of said armhole opening, said shoulder regions of saidsleeve and said armhole opening being joined to form a shoulder seam;and an underarm region including two bias-cut generally triangularprojections each having a first side comprising an extension of arespective longitudinally-extending side of said sleeve, saidprojections being joined along said first sides to form an extension ofsaid sleeve seam, said projections each having a second sideintersecting said regularly-curved shoulder region of said sleeve at anabrupt angular transition as distinguished from joining the shoulderregion of said sleeve in a V 2. The garment according to claim 1 whereinthe angle between said first and second sides of each of saidprojections is approximately 3. The garment according to claim 2 whereinthe top of said sleeve, as defined by its shoulder region and said twoprojections, is symmetrical relative to an apex of said regularly curvedshoulder region.

4. A sleeved garment affording the wearer considerably improved freedomof arm motion by substantially eliminating bunching and wrinkling ofmaterial in the underarm region of the garment, said sleeved garmentcomprising:

a body portion having a side seam and an armhole opening disposed abovesaid side seam, said armhole opening having a regularly curved shoulderregion and a pair of sides which converge downwardly along the side ofsaid body portion to meet the top of said seam at a locationsubstantially below the armpit ofthe wearer; and one-piece sleevecharacterized by: two-longitudinally extending sides joined together toprovide a single sleeve seam; a regularly curved shoulder region at oneend of said sleeve contoured to match the shoulder region of saidarmhole opening, said shoulder regions of said sleeve and said armholeopening being joined to form a shoulder seam; and an underarm regionincluding two bias-cut generally triangular projections each having afirst side com rising an extension of a respective longitudmaly-extendmg side of said sleeve, said projections being joined along saidfirst sides to form an extension of said sleeve seam, said projectionseach having a second side which abruptly intersects saidregularly-curved shoulder region of said sleeve, said second sides beingrespectively joined to said two downwardly converging sides of saidarmhole opening such that said extension of said sleeve seam is alignedwith and meets said side seam and such that said projections extend asubstantial distance below the armpit of the wearer.

5. The garment according to claim 4 wherein the angle between said firstand second sides of each of said projections is approximately 30.

6. The garment according to claim 5 wherein the top of said sleeve, asdefined by its shoulder region and said two projections, is symmetricalrelative to an apex of said regularly curved shoulder region.

* i I I

1. A sleeve garment affording the wearer considerably improved freedomof arm motion by eliminating the motion-restricting lateral underarmseam employed in conventional garments, said sleeved garment comprising:a body portion having a side seam and an armhole opening disposed abovesaid side seam, said armhole opening having a regularly curved shoulderregion and a pair of sides which converge downwardly along the side ofsaid body portion to meet the top of said side seam at a locationsubstantially below the armpit of the wearer; and a one-piece sleevecharacterized by: two-longitudinally extending sides joined together toprovide a single sleeve seam; a regularly curved shoulder region at oneend of said sleeve contoured to match the shoulder region of saidarmhole opening, said shoulder regions of said sleeve and said armholeopening being joined to form a shoulder seam; and an underarm regionincluding two bias-cut generally triangular projections each having afirst side comprising an extension of a respectivelongitudinally-extending side of said sleeve, said projections beingjoined along said first sides to form an extension of said sleeve seam,said projections each having a second side intersecting saidregularly-curved shoulder region of said sleeve at an abrupt angulartransition as distinguished from joining the shoulder region of saidsleeve in a smooth curve, said second sides being respectively joined tosaid two downwardly converging sides of said armhole opening such thatsaid extension of said sleeve seam is aligned with and meets said sideseam, said projections extending a distance sufficiently below thearmpit of the wearer to eliminate said lateral underarm seam and providea single bias fold extending across said projections at the armpit ofthe wearer when the arm of the wearer is in its lowered position.
 2. Thegarment according to claim 1 wherein the angle between said first andsecond sides of each of said projections is approximately 30*.
 3. Thegarment according to claim 2 wherein the top of said sleeve, as definedby its shoulder region and said two projections, is symmetrical relativeto an apex of said regularly curved shoulder region.
 4. A sleevedgarment affording the wearer considerably improved freedom of arm motionby substantially eliminating bunching and wrinkling of material in theunderarm region of the garment, said sleeved garment comprising: a bodyportion having a side seam and an armhole opening disposed above saidside seam, said armhole opening having a regularly curved shoulderregion and a pair of sides which converge downwardly along the side ofsaid body portion to meet the top of said seam at a locationsubstantially below the armpit of the wearer; and a one-piece sleevecharacterized by: two-longitudinally extending sides joined together toprovide a single sleeve seam; a regularly curved shoulder region at oneend of said sleeve contoured to match the shoulder region of saidarmhole opening, said shoulder regions of said sleeve and said armholeopening being joined to form a shoulder seam; and an underarm regionincluding two bias-cut generally triangular projections each having afirst side comprising an extension of a respectivelongitudinally-extending side of said sleeve, said projections beingjoined along said first sides to form an extension of said sleeve seam,said projections each having a second side which abruptly intersectssaid regularly-curved shoulder region of said sleeve, said second sidesbeing respectively joined to said two downwardly converging sides ofsaid armhole opening such that said extension of said sleeve seam isaligned with and meets said side seam and such that said projectionsextend a substantial distance below the armpit of the wearer.
 5. Thegarment according to claim 4 wherein the angle between said first andsecond sides of each of said projections is approximately 30*.